This was going to be a long drive! Land Rovers are not comfortable vehicles at the best of times. Mike's Land Rover was made ten years before mine in 1959. It has no sides and only a canvas roof. There is no heater, no air conditioning (actually one could probably say there is a lot of air conditioning), no radio and definitely no speed. We wrapped up and headed steely (or should I say aluminiumly) south towards Kwa-Zulu Natal and then enter Lesotho via Sani Pass. The trip was uneventful and as we started to rise up through the Drakensberg Mountains towards Lesotho we encountered quite thick mist. As we rounded a bend we came across a delivery truck lying on its side with one occupant lying next to the vehicle and another walking around. We stopped to help and made sure that the injured person was kept warm and then after phoning for an ambulance continued on our way south.
Coffee was being drunk by the gallon as Mike determinedly aimed his Landy towards Sani. The steady progress (Mike travells at a constant GPS speed of 72 km/h) meant we should get to St James by Saturday afternoon if the looming clouds did not drop its load of rain and make the dirt roads we were now on slippery. The border crossing when surprisngly effortlessly. In Africa border crossings can be maddingly lengthy and frustrating. As we headed through the numerous mountain passes towards St James Lodge the clouds became heavier and lower and more threatening. My fear was that not only would the rain delay us but I would have to repair the vehicle in the pouring rain.
At three o'clock on Saturday afternoon we drove in to St James Lodge and I was rewarded with the most beautiful sight imaginable - a complete and undamaged Basil. By now one could almost reach up and touch the clouds. Mike suggested a beer. I suggested work and then a beer. I was concerned about the impending rain. Sipho greeted us warmly and then we got the repairs going with the hard-earned alcoholic refreshment dangling like a carrot before us. Exactly half an hour later the master cylinder was in place and the brakes bled. Basil had brakes again. As I started the engine to tentativley drive and test the brakes the few drops of rain started to fall.
Mike had the fire started for a braai and loaded the wood on to keep it burning through the now torrential rain. How he did this I can still only marvel at. Not only did he keep it going but managed to cook a gourmet meal on the fire of fillet steak, mielies (corn), baked potatoes and pork ribs.
Sipho advised us that the lodge had run out of water. I decided a good way to really test Basil's brakes would be to tow the trailer with water container and petrol driven pump down the mountain to the river and back. The brakes worked perfectly and at the river as much as we tried we could not get the engine to start to pump water and eventually surrended and returned up the mountain empty-handed. After the long drive and now cold driving rain there would be no hot shower.
Oh well there was plenty of Captain Morgan rum to warm the cockles of our hearts. The three of us tucked into a feast and had a fantastic evening talking and eating and drinking.
The morning dawned and the rain had not abated. I had not seen so much rain in a long time. The roads were now going to be great fun for us in the Land Rovers and we relished the thought of tackling the muddy mountain passes. This was afterall what Land Rovers were designed for. We bade farewell to Sipho and some of local children who were at the St James Mission School as we drove through and headed for the first mountain pass. As we drove I spotted a vehicle that had left the road unceremoniously and ended up halfway down the mountain. These roads are not for sissies!
Not long thereafter the snow began falling. This was mind blowing for me. Snow twice in two weeks. It was October and now officially summer and it was snowing! True to form Mike and I stopped in the snow for a beer. We were at the top of one of the highest passes in Lesotho and the snow was driving down and you guessed it here comes a local sheep herder to beg. Mike was feeling very amenable and gave him a blanket and then he still has the audacity to now ask for money. 
The Basotho can make me lose patience!A very new South African Land Cruiser drove past and the occupants looked the these two ancient Land Rovers and two very strange looking people drinking beer in the snow and hurried on by.
We stopped for something to eat and drink at Sani Hotel and while sitting in the bar who should arrive but the Land Cruiser. Again some strange looks which makes us smile and really enjoy ourselves. For those who don't know Mike you won't know his laugh. Mike doesn't just laugh. He LAUGHS with not only a capital L but all capitals. You can hear him across the loudest and most raucus pub. Anyway time to leave and we head for Sani Pass. We go through customs and head down the snaking hairpin bends. As I round one of the hairpins I see Mike standing in the road cradling a boulder in his arms. I stop at the side and Mike wedges the boulder in front of the wheels of my Land Rover and he laughingly announces we have to have a beer and enjoy the view. So there we are looking ever like to hobos and, yes you guessed it, The Land Cruiser drives past. By now Mike and I are nearly rolling on the floor from the looks of disbelief from the Cruiser occupants. Oh well they just don't know how much fun a forty and fifty year old Land Rover can give you.
Once we reached to the bottom of the pass it was head down and Joburg bound where we arrived on Monday after sleeping over a bed and breakfast establishment in the foothills of the Drakensberg mountains.
What a trip and what a true friend. Mike epitomises the spirit of a Land Rover owner. Thanks Mike and cheers.
